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Why Photo Quality Matters for Card Identification
AI card identification works by analysing the visual features of a card — its artwork, text, symbols, borders, foil patterns, and design elements — and matching them against a database of known cards. The quality of the input photo directly determines the accuracy of the output.
A clear, well-lit, properly oriented photo of a card will achieve identification accuracy above 99%. A blurry, glare-covered, or heavily cropped photo may fail to identify the card or return incorrect results. This guide covers everything you need to know to get the best possible identification results.
Fundamental Rules for All TCG Card Photos
1. Lay the Card Flat
Never hold the card in your hand for identification photos. Holding creates multiple problems:
- •Fingers block card edges, text, and symbols
- •The card angles slightly, causing perspective distortion
- •Movement blur is much more likely with handheld cards
Do: Lay the card face-up on a flat, clean surface.
Surface: A plain white or neutral-coloured surface works best. Avoid patterned surfaces (tablecloths, carpets) that can confuse the AI about where the card ends.
2. Shoot Straight Down from Above
The camera should be directly above the card, looking straight down — not at an angle.
Why it matters: Shooting at an angle causes perspective distortion — the card appears trapezoidal rather than rectangular. The AI is calibrated for square-on card images. Angled shots can cause misidentification of card borders and set symbols.
How to achieve it: Hold the phone or camera directly over the card, arms extended, screen facing down. Modern phones have grid lines that help you align the shot perfectly square.
3. Include All Four Edges
The card's four edges must all be visible in the photo. Do not crop the card.
Why it matters: The set symbol (usually middle-right), collector number (bottom), and edition stamps (various positions) are all on or near the card's borders. Cropping any edge removes critical identification information.
How to frame it: The card should take up approximately 80% of the photo's frame, with some plain background visible on all sides.
4. Check Focus Before Submitting
Blur is the most common cause of identification failure. The card text, set symbol, and small icons must be legible.
How to ensure focus: On a smartphone, tap the card in the camera viewfinder to set the focus point on the card. Tap the lock focus option if available. Wait for the camera to confirm focus before taking the shot.
Tip: Take multiple photos and select the sharpest before uploading.
Lighting: The Critical Variable
Lighting is the most important factor in card photography, particularly for foil and special treatment cards.
Best Lighting: Indirect Natural Light
Natural light from a window, with the card NOT in direct sunlight, gives the most accurate colour rendering. The indirect light is diffuse enough to avoid harsh shadows or glare.
Setup: Place the card near a window. Avoid direct sun hitting the card (this creates harsh shadows from the card's edges and can bleach out fine details).
Time of day: An overcast day provides ideal diffuse natural light. Direct sun is second-best if you can avoid direct beam on the card.
Good Lighting: Soft Indoor Lighting
A room with multiple light sources (overhead lighting + ambient from windows) typically works well for standard (non-foil) cards.
Avoid: A single overhead light source directly above the card — this creates a "hot spot" (bright reflection) in the center of the card.
Challenging: Foil and Special Treatment Cards
Foil cards create unique photography challenges because the foil reflects light in complex ways. Two approaches work well:
Approach 1 — Indirect side lighting: Position a single diffuse light source to the side of the card at roughly 45°. This illuminates the card surface without creating a direct reflection in the camera lens. The foil shimmer is visible in the image without obscuring text.
Approach 2 — Flat overcast light: Shooting outdoors under an overcast sky provides the most uniform light with no directional reflections. Foil cards photograph best in these conditions.
Avoid for foils: Direct flash perpendicular to the card. This creates a bright white reflection in the centre of the card that obscures the artwork and makes the card's text unreadable. The AI cannot identify cards with significant flash glare.
Game-Specific Photography Tips
Magic: The Gathering
- •The set symbol (middle-right) is a primary identifier — ensure it's clearly visible and in focus
- •For older cards (1993–2003), the border colour is subtle — use bright lighting to clearly show whether it's black, white, or silver bordered
- •For showcase and borderless cards, the full extent of the artwork to the card edge is important — include all four edges
- •For serialised cards, the serial number (usually small text) is helpful but not required for identification
Yu-Gi-Oh!
- •The 8-digit passcode (bottom-left) is a key identifier — photograph clearly
- •The set code (bottom-right) combined with the card number is the most reliable identifier for specific prints
- •For Ghost Rare identification, photograph at a 30–45° angle to capture the 3D holographic effect that proves Ghost Rare status
- •The "1st Edition" stamp (if present) must be clearly visible — it's typically below the card artwork on the left side
One Piece Card Game
- •The set code and card number (OP01-060 format) are at the bottom of the card
- •The rarity indicator follows the card number (e.g. /SEC)
- •For parallel art cards, photograph straight-on — the foil sheen is visible on the artwork area
- •Language edition: English and Japanese cards are clearly different in text layout — the full card should be photographed
Disney Lorcana
- •The ink colour (warm golden = Enchanted; coloured = standard) is visible in the frame — include the full border
- •For Enchanted cards, the distinctive golden frame requires good lighting to show its warm tone accurately
- •The set symbol appears as a circular icon at the bottom — include it in frame
- •Legend cards have distinctive border treatment different from lower rarities — always include the full card
Flesh and Blood
- •The pitch colour strip at the top of the card is essential — include the top edge clearly
- •For Cold Foil identification, photograph under indirect side-lighting to capture the blue-silver shimmer
- •The set symbol and edition text appear at the bottom-right — include the full card bottom
- •For Alpha cards (no set symbol), the absence of a symbol is the identifier — photograph clearly
Weiss Schwarz
- •The set abbreviation (e.g. MK for Miku, SAO for Sword Art Online) appears at the bottom-left
- •For SP (Special) cards, the reproduction signature is visible across the artwork — photograph at slight angle to confirm it's there
- •Japanese and English cards have different layouts — the language should be determinable from the photo
- •Climax cards have a distinctive trigger icon at the top — include the full card top
Handling Difficult Situations
Damaged or Worn Cards
For visibly damaged cards:
- •Take multiple photos from different angles
- •Include the side that has the most identifying information legible
- •Even partial card art combined with any legible text/symbols is usually sufficient for identification
- •Heavily water-damaged cards with warped surfaces may need multiple angles
Cards in Sleeves or Top Loaders
It's best to remove cards from sleeves for identification, as:
- •Sleeve texture can interfere with foil detection
- •Clear sleeves can create glare patterns
- •Coloured sleeves may affect colour accuracy
If the card cannot be safely removed (very valuable or fragile), photograph through the sleeve in diffuse lighting — avoid flash.
Cards in CGC/PSA/BGS Slabs
For graded slabs:
- •Photograph through the front of the slab in diffuse lighting
- •Avoid flash — the plastic creates reflections
- •The slab label contains the card name and grade, which helps confirmation
- •Our scanner identifies the card, but the slab condition grade is typically visible on the label
Very Old Vintage Cards (Pre-1995)
For genuinely old cards (Magic Alpha/Beta/Unlimited, early YGO, early sports cards):
- •Use the best lighting available
- •The card layout and font style are strong era identifiers even without visible set symbols
- •Focus on getting the clearest possible photo of the card name and any visible text or imagery
- •Multiple photos from slightly different angles can be combined for the best result
Summary Checklist
Before uploading any card photo, verify:
☐ Card is flat on a clean, plain surface
☐ Camera directly above the card (not angled)
☐ All four card edges are visible
☐ Card fills approximately 80% of the photo frame
☐ Image is in sharp focus
☐ No flash glare (especially for foil cards)
☐ Lighting is adequate — card text and symbols are legible
☐ For foil cards: indirect side lighting used
Following these guidelines consistently will achieve identification accuracy above 99% for any TCG card in any of our 12 supported games.
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